Set the 10mm caliper bolt aside with the 10mm nut. Remove the two old brake pads from the bracket and make a mental note of where the wear indicator or "squeal" bars are situated. On this Cherokee, the wear bars were situated at the bottom of both the inner and outer brake pads. Wear Bar - Bottom Both Pads Replace Pad Abutment Clips Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins If your new set of rear pads includes replacement brake hardware, pull the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket.
Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the to new pad abutment clips where they will come in contact with the bracket or the new brake pads. Push the new pad abutment clips in to the top and bottom of the bracket. In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.
Spread some brake parts lubricant grease on to the two pins. Push the lower pin back in to its rubber dust boot at the bottom of the bracket. The Cherokee is equipped with a "screw-in" type rear caliper piston. An optional item you may want to purchase for this procedure is a brake caliper piston tool.
I found it relatively easy to wind back the rear caliper piston by using a pair of needle nose pliers. Continue turning back the piston until it is just about flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it. Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since inhaling brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic causes cancer if inhaled.
Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotor. Note - If your Jeep Cherokee is equipped with the optional "tow package" that includes upgraded heavy duty rear brakes, the compatible replacement part numbers for the brake pads and rotors may be different.
If your Cherokee previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" resurfaced or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first rear brake job on your SUV and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.
To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.
They tend to be very quiet and don't produce much brake dust. Insert the two new brake pads in to the bracket with the wear bars situated at the bottom of both the inner and outer pads. Push the pads together until they are flush against the rotor. Swing the caliper down over the new brake pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper slider pins turns as you are trying to tighten the bolt, hold the pin in place with a 17mm wrench.
Tighten the two caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction as seen from the outside of the SUV with the 10mm socket or wrench to just past hand tight or about 20 to 25 lb-ft of torque. If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid might be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain a few air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with new DOT 3 brake fluid.
The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the 10mm nut at the top of the caliper. Spin in the five lug bolts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. Slightly tighten the lug bolts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern with the tire iron.
The best solution is to install a so called Slip Yoke Eliminator kit. The way to do this is to remove the stock bolts from the transfer case cross member, add some sort of spacer, and re-install it using longer-than-stock bolts.
Straight from the factory, the cross member is held in place on either side by a bolt and a stud each. The stud unscrews easily from the frame with vise grips or by using two nuts, locked against each other, and a wrench. Lower the cross member and install longer bolts and a number of thick washers. That way, you can try different heights to minimize the vibration before having a lowering block machined.
Torque down the bolts and go for a test drive. Experiment with different numbers of washers, making sure that you use the same amount on each bolt.
Once you have minimized the vibrations, have a lowering block machined, or use a piece of thick-walled square tubing of the right size. If you still experience vibrations, have a look at the Slip Yoke Eliminator install. Therefore, when lifting a vehicle, make sure that the bump stops are extended as needed. The procedure can be used for the front and the rear axle, checking one axle at a time. Bump stop extensions are available from Tomken Machine, Rubicon Express, and others, but you can also fabricate your own: for the rear axle, mount a machined block of aluminum with the required height between the frame and the stock bump stop, using longer bolts.
In front, use a machined aluminum disk or one or more hockey pucks! When mounting wider tires, these may rub the lower control arms at full turn. To remedy this, the steering stops need to be adjusted. The steering stops are two bolts that limit the steering arch as seen in the photo. Usually, the stops are adjusted by loosening the counter nut and screwing the bolt in or out.
In this case, unscrew the bolt and add washers as needed. For better steering performance, consider replacing the stock steering stabilizer with an aftermarket unit. Unfortunately, there is one annoying problem here: the stabilizer is secured to the drag-link-side mounting bolt by a plate welded to the bolt. Therefore, you must remove the original bolt from the drag link, and you definitely need a puller for this job, since the bolt is conical and extremely difficult to remove.
Aftermarket units should come with a replacement bolt, and once the original stabilizer is removed, installing the new one is a snap. Vibration breaks up the rust and allows the rust penetrant to seep into the threads. This requires a bit of patience and finesse to remove.
I use an air chisel equipped with a hammer bit. Pull the trigger and just let it vibrate the heck out of the fitting. Spray on more rust penetrant and repeat the vibration. Then try again with the flare nut wrench. Use the mini-tubing cutter or long-handled side cutters and cut the tubing. Then try using a deep socket to remove the fitting. Follow the rusted brake line back until you reach a good section.
Use the mini tubing cutter to cut the line. Clean off any dirt and debris from the freshly cut line. Slide on a new flare nut to fit the coupler union. Load the line into the S. Load the freshly cut line into the S. Then clamp it in place.
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