Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Author Info Last Updated: January 22, Open door partially to reveal the mortise lock cover plate at the edge of the door. Remove the two retaining screws and set aside. Note the position of the keyway as it relates to the cylinder. Most likely it is at the bottom six o'clock. Remove the cover plate from the edge of the door and back out the set screw that is preventing the cylinder from turning.
On some applications there may be two set screws, one for the outer cylinder and one for the inner. Unscrew the lock cylinder from the body of the mortise lock by turning it counterclockwise to the left.
Carefully thread the new cylinder into the body of the mortise lock. Use extreme caution not to cross thread the cylinder as this may ruin the entire lock! Set the cylinder so that the keyway is in the same position as it originally was, usually to the bottom, and tighten the set screw. Test the lock to make sure it is functioning properly. You may have to back out the new cylinder a turn or two so that everything works smoothly. The store where the cylinder was purchased will have trim rings that will compensate for this.
Once the lock is functioning properly, re-install the cover plate at the edge of the door. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Locks can be a bit tricky to install well on boxes and cases.
Measuring can work, but I find it best to use the lock itself to lay everything out. Tag: Hardware. I'm a passionate woodworking enthusiast of over 30 years, with an interest in the methods of pre-industrial joiners and cabinetmakers. I'm a furniture maker, teacher, and author, and I share my thoughts and experiences with the goal of educating and inspiring others who are pursuing the craft of traditional woodworking. In addition to writing about and teaching traditional woodworking, I also build commission pieces for customers, and speak at woodworking shows and seminars.
I recently installed an antique half mortice lock in an offering box I made for a new church. On the opposite side of the door, align the hole saw with the pilot hole made previously, and finish drilling the face bore.
Drill into the edge of the door at medium speed until the tip of the bit emerges in the face bore. Reduce pressure on the drill to avoid tearing out excess wood, and finish drilling the edge bore. Insert the latch assembly into the edge bore. Be sure that the latch's bevel faces toward the doorjamb. Outline the rectangular latch plate onto the door edge with a utility knife, then remove the assembly.
Using a chisel, cut along the outline as deep as the plate is thick. Turn the chisel bevel-side down and remove the waste, working from the middle out. The plate should be flush with the door edge when inserted into the finished mortise. Reinsert the latch assembly and mark the latch plate's screw holes inside the mortise.
Remove the assembly. Slide the outside knob with the spindle through the face bore and latch assembly. Then fit the inside knob over the spindle. Close the door until the latch touches the edge of the doorjamb.
Mark the jamb at the latch's midpoint. With a square, extend this mark across the jamb to the doorstop. Mark the midpoint of this line. Square up the sides of the mortise with a chisel, if necessary.
Using the technique described in Steps 6 and 7, chisel out a mortise as deep as the strike plate is thick. Tip: If the mortise is too deep, cut a cardboard shim to bring the face of the plate flush with the edge of the door. Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from.
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